Clifden Castle, Co. Galway

The picturesque town of Clifden is a popular destination for visitors. Dubbed the 'capital of Connemara', Clifden is a town of some 3,000 people. Its history, however, is not as venerable as one might expect, founded only in the early nineteenth century. The town was the brainchild of local landowner, John D'Arcy. The D'Arcy family originally hailed from the parish of Athenry, Co. Galway but prospered thanks to to the 1652 Act of Settlement, when they received a sizable amount of land in Connemara. While the D'Arcy's family seat was at Kiltullagh House, Athenry, to crown his new town, John decided to erect a suitable and fitting home for himself. This became known as Clifden Castle. Construction commenced c. 1815, in the Gothic Revival style, so popular in that century. However, because it was one the earlier Gothic Revival houses, it differed considerably from what followed throughout the later 1800s. Clifden Castle was more fanciful in appearance, and did little to genuinely imitate the castles of the medieval period. In reality it had more in common with the late eighteenth century Strawberry Hill Gotick than it did with many of its successors. It was nonetheless adorned with a series of turrets, flanking towers, crenelations, and pointed windows. 

The D'Arcy estate and the town of Clifden flourished originally. When the Famine broke out in 1845 the town possessed two noble churches, up to 200 houses, a courthouse, and a number of other civic buildings. The town's prosperity had much to do with the construction of a thriving harbour. However, this initial prosperity was not long lived, and tragedy struck with onset of the Famine. The estate's population suffered mortalities and a high rate of emigration. Rental incomes subsequently plumated, resulting ultimately in the D'Arcy's bankruptcy. In 1850 the estate was bought by the Eyre's, an English family, who originated in Somerset. The Eyre's were not resident landlords, and only infrequently occupied the castle. Upon the death of John Joseph Eyre in 1894, the castle and the estate were placed in trust. The castle subsequently fell into a state of disrepair. 

The image shows the castle in the early stages of dereliction. The castle is now roofless and abandoned but the outer walls are still in place. The estate was subsequently broken up by the Irish Land Commission in the 1930s, when its land was sold in smaller lots to local farmers. 

Waterford Castle, the Island, Waterford

A castle has stood on this site since the medieval period. The owners, the Fitzgeralds were a Norman aristocratic family, and had arrived in Ireland as part of the Norman conquest of the twelfth century. A small Norman style keep was built on the island, but this was abandoned by the sixteenth century. It seems it remained in a state dereliction until the nineteenth century, when the castle we now have today took its form. The then owner, John Fitzgerald, carried out the initial restoration in 1849, which was enhanced in the 1870s and 90s by Gerald Purcell-Fitzgerald. Fitzgerald employed the English architect W.H. Romaine-Walker (1854-1940) to oversee the restoration. 

The image above shows the castle as it essentially looks today. The wings to the east and west of the central section were added as part of the nineteenth century restoration. The central section contained the remaining traces of the original Norman keep, which were harmoniously adapted with the new designs. The 'new' castle did not have a polished stone exterior like many of the neo-Gothic buildings erected in the period, but rather an unrefined stone finish, giving it more of a 'medieval' feeling than many of its contemporaries enjoyed. Battlements, crenelations, and even gargoyles were included to add 'authenticity'. 

Waterford Castle sits peacefully on Little Island. The island measures just over 400 acres, and is located on the River Suir, less than five kilometers downstream from the city's bustling quays. The island remained in the hands of the Fitzgeralds for centuries, until the twentieth century, when it was bought by a family from Rhodesia, the Igos in 1958. They transformed the island into a horticultural centre, erecting large glass houses, growing flowers and crops. The island then became a dairy farm before eventually being turned into a luxury hotel in 1987. Much of the island is now in use as an eighteen hole golf course. 

The Fitzgerald family at the castle's main entrance 

The image above shows a small steamboat transporting the family to the island. In more recent years a car ferry now brings residents and golfers across the channel. 

Dromoland Castle, Co.Clare

A castle has stood on the site near Dromoland since the fifteenth century. Dromoland was traditionally the seat of the O'Brien family, a powerful Gaelic Irish family, who had retained status and wealth at the time of the Protestant Reformation by confirming to the state sponsored Church of Ireland. The family was granted the title 'Baron Inchiquin'; in return they vowed to renounce their Gaelic Irish titles and culture, and pledge allegiance to the Crown. The present castle at Dromoland dates from the early nineteenth century, the brainchild of Edward O'Brien, Lord Inchiquin. Inchiquin chose the English brothers, George and Richard Pain as architects. The Pains had already erected the magnificent castle neo-Gothic castle at Mitchelstown, and at Dromoland Inchiquin sought the increasingly popular Gothic for his new home. 

Building on the castle was completed c. 1835. It was mostly completed in local cut limestone, adorned with crenelations, corbles, and gothicised chimney stacks, while a tudor style porch was added at the front. Before the erection of the new castle, the O'Brien's principle home was at nearby Leamanagh Castle. Leamanagh contained a monumental entrance, dating from the seventeenth century. In 1907 Lord Inchiquin had part of this removed an re-erected at Dromoland. This  memorial highlighted the O'Brien family's links with Brian Boru, the one time ancient 'high king' of Ireland. When the sixteenth Lord Inchiquin sold the property in 1962, the castle was subsequently redeveloped as a luxury castle and golf complex. Significant additions were made, but in a sympathetic and harmonious way. The castle's opulence and prestige has attracted celebrities and politicians from all over the world. 

The castle viewed from across the lake 

New Facebook page launched

I've recently started a Facebook page. The address is https://www.facebook.com/bygone.ireland

The page's aim is to bring together the three blogs that I currently compile. The page will bring you news of new posts on all three blogs. It would be wonderful if you could check it out and maybe 'like' it or even add as a friend. Feel free to comment on entries and pictures; feed back and discussion is always appreciated. 

Mount Juliet, Thomastown, Co. Kilkenny

One of Ireland's truly great country houses, Mount Juliet sits proudly along the meandering banks of the River Nore, in the south-eastern county of Kilkenny. Now internationally renowned for its golf course and luxury hotel, the house and estate was once owned by James, duke of York (later James II), eventually becoming home to the earls of Carrick, relations of the Butler earls of Ormonde, in the 1750s. The first earl of Carrick, Somerset Hamilton Butler (1718-74) orignally settled there in the 1750s. In 1745 he had married Lady Juliana Boyle, daughter of the first earl of Shannon, Henry Boyle. Upon taking up residence at their estate, the couple lived at nearby Ballylinch Castle. Butler decided, however, a more fitting home was needed, and work commenced on a new house on the opposite bank of the River Nore, sometime in the early 1760s. 

Construction on the new house was completed c.1770, and was named in honour of Butler's wife, commonly known as Juliet. The house occupies a prominent raised site overlooking the River Nore, lending to an overall sense of impressiveness. The house exhibits aspects of the Classical style but was quite distinct from the popular Classical houses erected at the same time; its pitched roof and high chimneys almost harping back to an earlier architectural era. 

The view above shows the close proximity of the house to the river. In the background is visible the bridge erected by the first earl in 1762. The bridge allowed the earl and his wife easy access from Ballylinch House to their new home on the opposite side of the river. The estate now provides the setting for a championship golf course of international renown, having hosted the World Golf Championship in 2002 and 2004, as well as the Irish Open for many years.

One of the house's drawing rooms

Myrtle Grove, Youghal, Co. Cork

The seaside town of Youghal (in Irish 'Eochaill', meaning 'yew wood') is situated on Cork's eastern reaches, flanking the border with Waterford. The town has a long illustrious and history, with Vikings. Normans, and English all taking advantage of its strategic setting at the mouth of the River Blackwater. In the sixteenth century, the Catholic led Desmond Rebellion in Munster was defeated by forces loyal to Elizabeth I. In the wake of the victory, New English settlers were introduced to large parts of Munster. Youghal and the surrounding areas was one such area to see an influx of new settlers. One of these was an English adventurer, Sir Walter Raleigh, who received some 40,000 acres in the area.  Raleigh held a number of properties in east Munster, including for a time, Lismore Castle. However, it was at Youghal that he left his greatest mark, where he resided whilst serving as the town's mayor in the 1580s at a fine Elizabethan style house known as Myrtle Grove. In the twentieth century the house was home to Sir Henry Arthur Blake, the one time Governor-General of Hong Kong.

The house at Myrtle Grove is said to date from the 1550s, and predates Raleigh's taking up of residence by some thirty or so years. The house is a detached six bay gabbled, three storey building  and is one of the very few examples of an unfortified Tudor house in Ireland. One of the main characteristics of Tudor architecture was the use of steep gables and tall chimneys, both features evident in the image below. 

View of the rear showing the steep gables and prominent tall chimneys 

Reception room

A number of myths have sprung up due to Raleigh's association with Myrtle Grove. One of the most well-known is that which says the first potatoes in Ireland were planted there, Raleigh having planted them upon his return from the New World. Another popular tale recalls a servant of Raleighs dousing him with water, mistaking the never before seen tobacco smoke for a fire! There is said, however, to be some truth in the legend that Myrtle Grove was where the Elizabethan poet, Edmund Spenser first penned the poem 'the Faerie Quuene'. Spenser had acquired land as part of the Munster Plantation, and was a close friend of Raleighs. 

Templemore Abbey, Co. Tipperary

Templemore Abbey is another of Ireland's lost architectural treasures. This extensive neo-Gothic mansion was destroyed by revolutionary forces during the Irish War of Independence in 1921. The abbey, or priory as it was sometimes known, had been in the hands of a local land owning family, the Cardens. The family originated in the English county of Cheshire but came to Ireland in the wake of the Cromwellian settlement in the seventeenth century. In 1787 the family was raised to the baronnetcy, with the senior male enjoying the title 'sir' from then on. The house seen in the image below dates from the 1860s, and was built on the site of a previous house erected c. 1820. The new house combined aspects of the Elizabethan style with the increasingly popular neo-Gothic, and was complete with battlements, turrets, and pinnacles, all for purely decorative purposes. 

During the War of Independence (1919-21), north county Tipperary was a hotbed of republican activity. In response to this government forces commandeered private properties where troops would be stationed. This was the case with Templemore Abbey where B Company of the Auxiliaries were based from 1920. The Auxiliaries were more commonly known as the 'Black and Tans', due to the colours on their uniform, and came to be especially despised by some locals due to a number of alleged atrocities. When the Auxiliaries departed the Abbey in May 1921, the local brigade of the IRA received orders from the central command, allegedly coming from Michael Collins, to burn the house so as it could not be used in the event of British forces returning in the future. The burning of the house was undoubtedly also a symbolic act of vengeance against the Cardens, themselves a large local land owning family. The house was subsequently raised to the ground; nothing remains save the gate lodge and a partially intact stable block.  

The angle of the image above shows the true extent of the scale of the house, which was said to have comprised some sixty rooms.